Figueres is the gateway to the Empordà, but most cyclists head straight for the coast or Cap de Creus and overlook the inland routes. This is one of our personal favourites: quiet secondary roads following the Fluvià river south-west to the dam, then on to Besalú — one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Catalonia.
We ride it as an out-and-back from Ca La Fustereta, right in the centre of Figueres. No support car needed, no complex logistics: roll out of the garage and go. Along the way you'll find water, cafés, and a finish in Besalú that makes every pedal stroke worthwhile.
The route sets off from Carrer Pi i Margall in the centre of Figueres. The first few kilometres navigate the urban streets and roundabouts on the edge of town — the least scenic stretch, but short. By km 4 you're out into open countryside and the Empordà plain unfolds ahead of you.
The terrain is flat and the first 15 km roll by easily. The secondary road towards the Fluvià carries very little traffic, especially on weekdays. After the village of Navata — a good halfway marker for this opening section — the river becomes visible through the riverside vegetation.
The Fluvià reservoir is the hidden gem of this route. The still water creates a completely unexpected contrast in the middle of the flat plain: the light at early morning or late afternoon is pure photography. The road along the north bank of the dam climbs gently but steadily — this is where most of the 620 m of elevation is gained.
The highest point is right at the dam crest. Stop here: views north to the Alberes hills, east across the Empordà plain, and south-west toward the first ridges of the Garrotxa. The descent from here to Besalú is gentle and wonderfully smooth.
Besalú is one of the most striking medieval ensembles in Catalonia, listed as a Cultural Heritage Site of National Interest. The 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvià river — with its defensive towers — is one of the most photographed medieval structures in all of Catalonia. Riding up to it and crossing on your bike is a genuinely special moment.
In the centre of Besalú you'll find bars and restaurants for lunch or coffee. The medieval Jewish quarter and Plaça de la Llibertat are worth 30–45 minutes on foot before heading back.
The return follows the same route in reverse. Watch out for the dam climb, which hits you all at once on tired legs. Save something in reserve if you've pushed hard on the way out.
Want more routes? See our guide to the 5 best cycling routes from Figueres.
Ride straight out from the centre of Figueres. Private garage, full workshop and every route at your door.
Check availability →